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Probably overheated black color SMD pads


vias directly on SMD pads?Is the shape of (SMD) pads relevant?Are thermal reliefs on SMD pads beneficial when reflow soldering?Removing SMD connector from PCBWhat are those black spots in these lead-free solder joints?Solder paste stencil applicationDesoldering a TO-220 MOSFET from a plated through-hole board with SMD complicationsHelp on ID for SMD component (probably diode)Best solder wire - Sn63Pb37 vs Sn60Pb40 vs …?Soldering iron tip turns black after first use, and won't melt solder













3












$begingroup$


Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?



The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.



I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.



I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.



I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.



photo of resistors in the board










share|improve this question









New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$







  • 4




    $begingroup$
    It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    16 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
    $endgroup$
    – Mahendra Gunawardena
    15 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
    $endgroup$
    – immibis
    6 hours ago






  • 3




    $begingroup$
    What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
    $endgroup$
    – Spehro Pefhany
    6 hours ago






  • 2




    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago
















3












$begingroup$


Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?



The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.



I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.



I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.



I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.



photo of resistors in the board










share|improve this question









New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$







  • 4




    $begingroup$
    It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    16 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
    $endgroup$
    – Mahendra Gunawardena
    15 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
    $endgroup$
    – immibis
    6 hours ago






  • 3




    $begingroup$
    What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
    $endgroup$
    – Spehro Pefhany
    6 hours ago






  • 2




    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago














3












3








3





$begingroup$


Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?



The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.



I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.



I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.



I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.



photo of resistors in the board










share|improve this question









New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$




Can you give me an advice what to do with probably overheated SMD soldering pads on the board?



The photo is of a computer bus card, where there are 4 SMD 0603 positions labeled R1 - R4. They are used for configuring the card frequency from 20 MHz to 40 MHz.
These positions should be bridged by 0 ohm resistors.



I wanted to reconnect the R2 and R4 positions. I used a soldering station with iron and controlled temperature and electrical 1mm thin solder. I set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius.



I didn't have SMD resistors, so I used just thin wire as I have seen in a web page.
However it looks like I overheated the pads - they are a black color and I can't wet them any more with solder.



I know I should have better solder with hot air soldering unit and solder paste.



photo of resistors in the board







soldering surface-mount






share|improve this question









New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 16 hours ago









SamGibson

11.5k41738




11.5k41738






New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 16 hours ago









pjaro77pjaro77

161




161




New contributor




pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






pjaro77 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







  • 4




    $begingroup$
    It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    16 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
    $endgroup$
    – Mahendra Gunawardena
    15 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
    $endgroup$
    – immibis
    6 hours ago






  • 3




    $begingroup$
    What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
    $endgroup$
    – Spehro Pefhany
    6 hours ago






  • 2




    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago













  • 4




    $begingroup$
    It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    16 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
    $endgroup$
    – Mahendra Gunawardena
    15 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
    $endgroup$
    – immibis
    6 hours ago






  • 3




    $begingroup$
    What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
    $endgroup$
    – Spehro Pefhany
    6 hours ago






  • 2




    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago








4




4




$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
16 hours ago




$begingroup$
It is perfectly possible to hand solder SMD parts with a soldering iron and solder. I do it all the time. Soldering in a single part on an already populated board would probably be harder to do with solder paste and a hot air station.
$endgroup$
– JRE
16 hours ago












$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
15 hours ago




$begingroup$
Can you please give us a little bit more detail of the board. May we can find a alternate location where we can help you jumper the remaining R2 and R4 pads.
$endgroup$
– Mahendra Gunawardena
15 hours ago












$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
6 hours ago




$begingroup$
Looks to me like they probably go to the pins on the nearby U12 does. At least R4 does and I can't see R2, but I bet it's similar. Since the tracks are destroyed you can use small wires to make the connection.
$endgroup$
– immibis
6 hours ago




3




3




$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
6 hours ago




$begingroup$
What happened to those tracks? Did you run massive (well a couple amperes maybe) current through them? That's not from soldering.
$endgroup$
– Spehro Pefhany
6 hours ago




2




2




$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
5 hours ago





$begingroup$
@pjaro77 - "I dont know why the tracks are so black" I believe those tracks are actually missing, which is why they look black - there is no copper there, and no red solder resist. For example, notice how the while silkscreen component designations for R1 and R2 have small parts of the 1 and 2 missing. It looks just like the whole track there has been pulled upwards, and taken the red solder resist and white silkscreen too, leaving just the bare fibreglass board where the track used to be.
$endgroup$
– SamGibson
5 hours ago











3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















9












$begingroup$

It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.






share|improve this answer









$endgroup$












  • $begingroup$
    I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    15 hours ago


















6












$begingroup$

As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.



Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.



You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.



However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.






share|improve this answer











$endgroup$












  • $begingroup$
    Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    5 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago



















1












$begingroup$

They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.






share|improve this answer








New contributor




thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes








    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    9












    $begingroup$

    It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.






    share|improve this answer









    $endgroup$












    • $begingroup$
      I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      15 hours ago















    9












    $begingroup$

    It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.






    share|improve this answer









    $endgroup$












    • $begingroup$
      I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      15 hours ago













    9












    9








    9





    $begingroup$

    It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.






    share|improve this answer









    $endgroup$



    It appears from the picture that the pads have been completely destroyed and come off the board. The dark color that you see is the underlying raw circuit board material.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 16 hours ago









    Michael KarasMichael Karas

    44.7k348103




    44.7k348103











    • $begingroup$
      I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      15 hours ago
















    • $begingroup$
      I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      15 hours ago















    $begingroup$
    I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    15 hours ago




    $begingroup$
    I omited that the board is fully functional but as the resistors are missing, it works only on 20 MHz.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    15 hours ago













    6












    $begingroup$

    As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.



    Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.



    You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.



    However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.






    share|improve this answer











    $endgroup$












    • $begingroup$
      Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago
















    6












    $begingroup$

    As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.



    Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.



    You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.



    However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.






    share|improve this answer











    $endgroup$












    • $begingroup$
      Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago














    6












    6








    6





    $begingroup$

    As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.



    Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.



    You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.



    However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.






    share|improve this answer











    $endgroup$



    As described by Michael Karas in his answer, you have overheated the pads, and it seems that some pads and some tracks have come off and are now missing e.g. the track from pin 4 of the ICS511 PLL Clock Multiplier IC to positions R3 and R4 appears to be missing.



    Therefore you now need to reverse-engineer that part of the circuit, looking for where the missing tracks should be, to decide where you can connect equivalent thin wire (e.g. 30 AWG wire wrap wire or even thinner "magnet wire") to replace those missing tracks and also to simulate the connections of the 0 Ohm resistors which you wanted.



    You might only need to connect a few links across ICS511 pins, but you need to work that out looking at the PCB tracks e.g. from your photo, it isn't obvious where the lower R2 pad should be connected, as it seems to go under the ICS511. That IC has only 2 inputs, so with some care and magnification, you should be able to reverse engineer that part of the design, to then decide on your repair strategy.



    However, without better soldering equipment (and perhaps more experience / help etc.) there is a risk that you could make things worse, if you carry on trying to repair that board.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 15 hours ago

























    answered 15 hours ago









    SamGibsonSamGibson

    11.5k41738




    11.5k41738











    • $begingroup$
      Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago

















    • $begingroup$
      Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
      $endgroup$
      – pjaro77
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago










    • $begingroup$
      ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
      $endgroup$
      – SamGibson
      5 hours ago
















    $begingroup$
    Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    5 hours ago




    $begingroup$
    Thank you, i will ask the manufacturer of the board how connect directly the pins of ICS511 multiplier.
    $endgroup$
    – pjaro77
    5 hours ago












    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago




    $begingroup$
    @pjaro77 - You're welcome. In case the manufacturer won't help, here are a few comments. (a) There are only 2 configuration inputs on that IC (I linked the datasheet) - pins 4 & 6. Each of them can be in 3 states - pulled high, pulled low or floating. (b) I can't see well enough on the photo, but I suspect that bridging R1 pulls pin 6 high, bridging R2 pulls pin 6 low. Similarly, bridging R3 pulls pin 4 high and bridging R4 pulls pin 4 low. Therefore fitting R2 and R4 as you wanted probably pulls pins 4 and 6 low. Double-check my opinions about the "top" pads of R2 and R4.
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago












    $begingroup$
    ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago





    $begingroup$
    ... After checking my assumptions, you will learn what to do with pins 4 & 6 on that ICS511 (U12), instead of trying to use the missing component pads for R1 - R4 and the missing tracks. As I said, please be careful. I don't think you need "special" techniques yet, as long as you can decide on the required connections to pins 4 & 6, and can solder wires to those pins without doing further damage. However if you are unsure about your equipment or experience, don't have enough magnification or overheat that IC or its pads etc, you could make things much worse. Your risk. Good luck!
    $endgroup$
    – SamGibson
    5 hours ago












    1












    $begingroup$

    They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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    $endgroup$

















      1












      $begingroup$

      They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.






      $endgroup$















        1












        1








        1





        $begingroup$

        They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.






        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.






        $endgroup$



        They do sell surface mount pad/trace repair kits that you could use which I've used quite successfully. You would have to carefully cut the remnants of what is existing there and then follow the instructions to activate the adhesive on the new pads after laying down smoothly (usually with the use of a flat round iron), then carefully solder the existing traces and new pads together. If you have unused pads elsewhere that don't serve a purpose, you might be able to purposely lift those with a hot air nozzle and then re-lay them in that area, but I'd recommend the pad repair kid first before anything. Again, like the others have said - you could end up making things worse unless you practice a bunch on some sample boards.







        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.









        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer






        New contributor




        thenapolitan is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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        answered 7 hours ago









        thenapolitanthenapolitan

        112




        112




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