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is this saw blade faulty?
When should I replace a circular saw blade?Why won't my circular saw blade tighten on the spindle?Is a special circular saw blade needed to cut plastic?Should my first power saw be a circular or jig saw?Why does my circular saw motor turn but the blade does not?Circular saw blade won't tightenMy first jig saw; is this blade fitted right? Black & Decker BDEJS600CCircular saw blade clogs nonuniformlyHow to change the blade on my mitre saw?Tips on cutting curves with a jigsaw
This may be the stupidest DIY question ever, but I want to make sure before I return it: is this non-ferrous metals saw blade faulty ? In the picture, see where one of the titanium carbide teeth seems to be too large and to extend into the expansion slot. BTW, I had made 4 cuts of 9-15" or so, in 3/16 aluminum plate, before I noticed this; it cut ok, seems like it could have been smoother, but I've never cut aluminum with a power saw before, so I don't really know what to expect.
Here is the blade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFCMI34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... and the picture of mine:
tools powertools saw circular-saw
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
add a comment |
This may be the stupidest DIY question ever, but I want to make sure before I return it: is this non-ferrous metals saw blade faulty ? In the picture, see where one of the titanium carbide teeth seems to be too large and to extend into the expansion slot. BTW, I had made 4 cuts of 9-15" or so, in 3/16 aluminum plate, before I noticed this; it cut ok, seems like it could have been smoother, but I've never cut aluminum with a power saw before, so I don't really know what to expect.
Here is the blade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFCMI34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... and the picture of mine:
tools powertools saw circular-saw
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
add a comment |
This may be the stupidest DIY question ever, but I want to make sure before I return it: is this non-ferrous metals saw blade faulty ? In the picture, see where one of the titanium carbide teeth seems to be too large and to extend into the expansion slot. BTW, I had made 4 cuts of 9-15" or so, in 3/16 aluminum plate, before I noticed this; it cut ok, seems like it could have been smoother, but I've never cut aluminum with a power saw before, so I don't really know what to expect.
Here is the blade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFCMI34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... and the picture of mine:
tools powertools saw circular-saw
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
This may be the stupidest DIY question ever, but I want to make sure before I return it: is this non-ferrous metals saw blade faulty ? In the picture, see where one of the titanium carbide teeth seems to be too large and to extend into the expansion slot. BTW, I had made 4 cuts of 9-15" or so, in 3/16 aluminum plate, before I noticed this; it cut ok, seems like it could have been smoother, but I've never cut aluminum with a power saw before, so I don't really know what to expect.
Here is the blade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFCMI34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
... and the picture of mine:
tools powertools saw circular-saw
tools powertools saw circular-saw
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
asked 9 hours ago
RustyShacklefordRustyShackleford
195314
195314
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.
A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.
The J Shape is supposed to be there.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades. I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue.
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
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active
oldest
votes
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.
A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.
The J Shape is supposed to be there.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
add a comment |
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.
A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.
The J Shape is supposed to be there.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
add a comment |
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.
A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.
The J Shape is supposed to be there.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers.
The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off.
A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely.
The J Shape is supposed to be there.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
answered 7 hours ago
Tyler SwensonTyler Swenson
861
861
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Tyler Swenson is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
Yep, pulled it off with needle-nose pliers (tried that before, but didn't try hard enough).
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
So you're saying I should've pushed the saw harder (maybe can't tell from the scale, it's a 7-1/4" circular saw, not a table or miter saw) ? In fact, sometimes when I pushed harder, it seemed the aluminum provided less resistance. One lives and one learns.
– RustyShackleford
3 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
I can see some chips galled to the teeth in front of the plugged gullet-- so it was being pushed hard enough to form those, which is a good sign (as opposed to melting). How hard you can push it depends on what type of aluminum alloy, the thickness, system stiffness, chip evacuation, and lubricant... best judged by feel, as you mention, especially with a hand tool. WD40 will help keep the chips moving out of the gullet and from sticking to the cutting edges, this is pretty critical with a circular saw. I think you will have good results with some lube and steady feed. Good luck, safe cutting!
– Tyler Swenson
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades. I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue.
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
add a comment |
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades. I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue.
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
add a comment |
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades. I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue.
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades. I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue.
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
edited 8 hours ago
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
answered 8 hours ago
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,849225
3,849225
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
1
1
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
Could be aluminum build up on a bad tooth - good point. I assumed it was slag build up from the laser cut operation that made the J or brazing the tooth on the blade.
– JPhi1618
8 hours ago
add a comment |
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