Large drywall patch supportsWhat is the best method to patch a large hole (2-3 inches) in drywall?How do I cover large gaps in drywall?How do I keep drywall around a patch from crumbling?Can I glue a second layer of drywall?How to patch long strip on drywall?Large drywall patch: how to avoid bulging seams?Leveling drywall patchDrywall Mesh Patch vs. Bulge? To remove or not to remove?Prep drywall before backsplashDrywall patching using 3M Patch Plus Primer
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Large drywall patch supports
What is the best method to patch a large hole (2-3 inches) in drywall?How do I cover large gaps in drywall?How do I keep drywall around a patch from crumbling?Can I glue a second layer of drywall?How to patch long strip on drywall?Large drywall patch: how to avoid bulging seams?Leveling drywall patchDrywall Mesh Patch vs. Bulge? To remove or not to remove?Prep drywall before backsplashDrywall patching using 3M Patch Plus Primer
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
add a comment |
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
add a comment |
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.
The existing hole with plumbing:
The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):
Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:
Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:
Dry fit of the whole patch:
My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
edited 1 hour ago
Alessio Sangalli
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
asked 2 hours ago
Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli
515
515
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
add a comment |
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
add a comment |
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:
- Down both sides
- Across the bottom between the two studs
- Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations
- Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing
This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
answered 2 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
50.4k456127
50.4k456127
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
– Alessio Sangalli
1 hour ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
add a comment |
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
answered 57 mins ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
55.1k23990
55.1k23990
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
add a comment |
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
OK but won't I risk that the patch, along the sides will be weak? Also what is the recommended clearance between the patch and the existing wall; I guess too much is not good but also there should be a minimum width or the mud won't penetrate and remain too superficial?
– Alessio Sangalli
22 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
@AlessioSangalli This is a wall with plumbing penetrations, its not like its the middle of a wall in your formal dining room. You do run a risk of a linear crack appearing especially along the vertical edges. To help prevent this you need to use drywall tape along the edges, and for this application I would recommend drywall mesh vs regular drywall tape.
– Glen Yates
10 mins ago
add a comment |
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